The Sick Back Log

I was sick all week last week, and I am still sick. So much for my theory that the ocean can cure your illeness. Despite being super sick I did get out and surf the amazing swell last week that pulsed throught the warm water.

Monday 8/4- Trecked down to uppers. It was really hight tide with lots of crazy rip currents. It was still breaking out far but the wave ended right on the sand so it made each wave exciting to avoid a sand body slam at the end. I nearly died riding back up the hills, because my lungs were so sick...This is when I realized i was really ill.

Wednesday- 8/6-- Still very sick but feeling better I walked down to Middle Trestels. Surf was 1-2 feet overhead on the sets. I caught some really thick rights that were really speedy and fun. My lungs gave out after an hour then i walked home.

Thursday-- 8/7 With the swell still pumping. I headed to T-street. The set waves were still head high to overhead. The left was lining up perfect on the outside sandbar and you could ride it way passed the restrooms all the way to the beach. After 7 long waves and paddle outs I decided to call it a week and rest for a few days...

I hope no one cathces this BUG because it really sucks....