Thursday, September 11, 2008

80/90

Thursday late morning Doho River Mouth! I had small window this morning to get my sesh in. Running late I turned the truck towards DOHO, breaking on of my top ten surf rules "never leave good or great surf". Having two great mornings @ Sano, one would think I would follow my own rule (got rule from Wisebecker)! Got to DOHO and it look like a like plus the line up @ the RM was very much inside compared to where it normally is!

Condition were glassy , water felt good, and some decent head hig set waves came in, however they were extremely week! I fun, nice break from the adrenalin filled sessions from the last two days!


PURA VIDA

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