Mon: 204's morning...days like today are what make it tuff. got down to 204's, it was grey, cold & hazy out. Waves looked like wind swell'ed kayos! Jumped in, very very cold, arms stung for what seemed a long time! Got a few waves, yes thought to myself better to be doing this than not...blah blah blah! It's getting to be very long surf off! Looking forward to a free surf sesh soon! if I make it, I will cherish the perfect record for ever, it has not been easy at all, yet at the same time I feel like the luckiest guy on any planet! 4 more sessions before I beet last years champ!
PURA VIDA
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