Sat 90/90 Pineapple Rock & 204's, with Pablo & Tomas! My back was on the verge of going out the entire way down to the beach! Felt good enough once I was in for awhile!
It's funny, the entire surf off I tell myself "this is way easier than it should be", & then the next day or so I say "this is way too difficult than it should be"! And that's it, every day brings a different unforeseen circumstance & change that effect you like a swell, weather, personal & work schedule, sickness/ill, pregnancies, laziness, excuses etc......., but.............. if you can just get in the water you realize how blessed you are!
Thank You,
God, family & friends for putting up with my surf habit!
PURA VIDA
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