Thursday: Morning pineapple rock! walled monsters with glassy conditions! * foot'n'it!
Friday: morning Doho River mouth, 9 foot'er, I was expecting more size, was able to get a few head high long rides! I think I might have pissed off a guy or two, especially when we both dropped in, he was closer to the power spot so technically it was "his wave" but to close to call, I was planning on finishing the drop in then pulling out, but the guy got right on top of me side by side trying to prove a point or something. So I started hoot'n & hollering Waikiki, ya baby, Waikiki party wave, all crazy geeky like. Then on the paddle back out I gave the guy the same look like we both had just shared the greatest wave ever! It was all kinda fun!
where is:
Soup
Pony Boy
Monster
Cobra
Sara Bell
J-MAN-CHADO
PURA VIDA
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