Gale Surfing

20 Knot winds yesterday were the story. I had a breakfast date with the Mrs. that precluded an early AM session and then had to watch the Soccer game. 2:30 came around and it was time. It was nearly unsurfable by the time I got down there and I decided to give it a go.
The wind was blowing so hard that the sand was pelting me in the face while I was getting dressed. There were several Kite surfers out there and that looked like a lot of fun. I had my 5'8" twin with me which is great for mushy conditions, not so great for windy/bumpy conditions, but I guess nothing is. Paddled out in hopes of getting at least one wave. First attempt I caught something (i think) and stood up and it immediately petered out. Not sure if it counted so I paddled back out. The winds had pushed me 30 ft south already and I had just gotten out. I paddled against the current, really not seeing much now that I'm laying down. As one suddenly poped up in front of me I turned again with as similar result as the first. I figured I would keep trying. If this was all I could get I might just text Roy and call it a session anyway, even though these "waves" were marginal at best. I did get to my feet and travel a few feet before falling out the back but there was no real drop, and certainly no turn. As I paddled back out and as I went over the top of the chop I saw something on the horizon. It was a wave for sure. Where it was or where it would end up or how it would break was a mystery but it was certainly a wave and if I could catch it there would be no question this was a "session". It popped up in front of me and turned on it, knowing I was way too late. If I could hold on though it would be a ridden wave without a doubt. Over the falls I went :-(
Now, knowing there was potential for a bona fide wave I had to stay out until I got one or I wouldn't in good faith be able to count this session. After a time, another came, and again I was a bit inside. I turned and thist time I held on to the bumpy ride. I never made it to the face but rode the white water in kook style.
45 minutes...several kind-of waves ridden. One bona fide wave ridden. In the spirit of the competition, it got me in the water when I would'nt have otherwise, I got some serious exercise as I was constantly paddling, got some good duck diving work in, and caught and rode a challenging wave.