Monday, June 22, 2009

NB 38th

Wanted to trek down to uppers this AM but couldn't sleep last night. Got up late (5:30) and checked the cliffs. Looked dumpy and people were scraping and making late drops so I headed south to NB, which was kind of risky because I was short on time and newps can be totally flat sometimes on a south even when HB is showing size.

Luckily 38th had rideable waves. Mostly W-Ch high with occasional plus sets. Really dumpy on the inside sandbar and I thought I might have broken my board at one point but didn't. Surfed for 45 minutes and got five waves, but only one really fun ride which was my last one. Fun hollow left off the jetty that I was able to keep up with and even get a couple of quick bounces off the top.

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