Thursday, June 25, 2009

Smaller Cliffs

Paddled out at the cliffs this morning. The swell had dropped but there are still waist to chest high sets. The low tide had it kind of drained and walled. A lot of close out drops into 6" of water. Got surprised on one set wave that the bottom dropped out from under me and I went over the falls pretty hard and was worried I might have broken my board.
Surfed for about 45 minutes and got around five waves as it was tough to find any corners out there.
If there are any waves at all that could feasibly push my 6'0" at doheny this afternoon I'm going to score a cheap "session" by paddling into one wave of record since I'm already going to be down there with some coworkers.

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