Cooked

Cook Island swell in in in full effect right now. Head High ++ at least. HB is DOH+ breaking on the bottom of the pier.
Surfed Newport 38th ST this AM. BIG but still manageable, unlike HB which had so much current the pros at the US open were using jet skis to get them back into the lineup. I got a few, and there were several I just paddled for dear life. My last wave (a right) was awesome with two big backside hacks. I didn't catch anything too much overhead as most of those waves were just closeouts anyway.
Surf was near perfect though. Smooth takeoffs with fast racy lefts and rights breaking top to bottom. I can't wait to get back in.
Here's a picture from HB this AM. I went and watched a few heats of the Open after my session and before going to work.