HB Firing

Jeeze. I thought the swell was backing off. I had to be in surgery at 7:30 so I was paddling out on the NS at 5:15 to get out by 6 or 6:15 at the latest.
It was good sized 4-6' and hollow and thumping. I actually thought I might get skunked because the waves were coming in so fast and I was on my 6'0" so I really was having trouble catching them.
Finally I got a pretty lame wave but surfed nonetheless.
Oh yeah. I forgot my wetsuit at work so I had to use my springsuit. Luckily the water warmed up and I was quite comfortable. Especially since the water temps were around 54 just a couple of days ago.
And another thing. Surfline is reporting it at 2-3 occ' 4. Saying it is smaller than yesterday. It was kinda big actually and the thumping waves kinda spooked me. Especially when I was alone. Surfline is lame.