Tuesday, September 15, 2009

September Session

Epic morning this morning. Pulled up and Jeff, Mike and Neal were all checking it with the cool light offshore winds blowing on it. I saw it and thought perfect. HH sets, peeling rights and lefts, light offshores creating nice little acorn shaped barrels.
Jeff was skeptical and was griping that the swell dropped but there was still plenty of size and in fact the conditions were so much better this looked to be a great morning.
First wave of the morning might have been my best of the summer. 200 yard long peeling HH left hitting it off the top the whole way down. My surfing has never been better.
Turns out there were more to come, some a little bigger, some a little smaller, all with smooth faces and peeling.
About 1/2 hour into the session about 30 dolphins came by and just hung out. Were'nt really swimming around much, just hanging out and chilling. Coming within 10' at times.

Awesome.

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