Big and Nasty

Ugh! Went to the cliffs this morning expecting a repeat of yesterday, or at least hoping for one. When I got there Jeff was standing at the cliff and hurriedly came down and met me in the parking lot and said "Don't even check it, just suit up." I figured it must be good and Jeff was just anxious. It was supposed to get bigger so I expected it to be a bit bigger than yesterday.
Well, as we walked up to climb down I noticed it had gotten a lot bigger, and there was some texture on it. I began to realize Jeff didn't want me to look at it because he knew I would've said "Lets go somewhere else". Now that I was suited up I was committed. Jeff was excited because he likes the size.
Well, as we paddled out I was realizing it was really big, and we paddled out at absolutely the wrong time. No channels at the beaches right now so it was just take it on the head one after another. After taking about 20 waves on the head I turned and came in. Jeff wasn't deterred and he just kept his monkey arms going and made it outside eventually. I watched from the beach for a bit trying to decide if it was worth another go. After all, I hadn't logged a wave to count a surf off session yet. I was watching and no one was getting any wave that looked very good. A bunch of big bumpy closeouts and a lot of work paddling around. About the time I decided I had the surf off wrapped up and I didn't need to put myself through the agony of paddling out and getting worked I noticed an owner desperately calling their dog who was attempting to swim out to its owner. I jumped in and paddled to the dog and turned it around and it headed back to the beach. At this point I was already half way out so I figured I would go the rest of the way.

As I neared the lineup I saw Jeff motioning to me to hurry up...a set was coming and he didn't want to be responsible for my drowning. I made it out and over the set, realizing that it was big and I had little chance on my 6'0" of catching anything. About the time I looked over at Jeff and said "I have no chance out here, I'm just going to try to find a way to get inside and catch a tweener in" another set came. I turned and looked at a right but Jeff was inside and decided to go. As I looked over the ledge it was confirmed, these drops were gnarly and it would be a miracle if I could paddle in for one and make the drop secondly.

The next wave came and I decided to give it a look. I turned and there was a left coming through I paddled and looked over the ledge, all the while thinking "there is no way I'm going to make this wave". Before I knew it the bottom was dropping out on me and the decision was mede for me before I had a chance to make up my mind. I was going and it was just a matter of whether I was going in the preferred controlled fashion or going to be held underwater for who knows how long. I popped to my feet and the bottom kept dropping out and I was just focusing on staying ahead of the lip. As I went down the face gaining speed and my balls went up into my throat I was on an adrenaline high and suprised with the ease of which I was able to navigate through the lumps and bumps and the really fast hollow wave. As I saw the whole thing start to throw out I turned and straightened out to stay in front of the lip for fear of ending up in traction. I succussfully made it out in front and I laid down on my board took it in and figured I had conquered the day, no need to tempt fate.

Smart move as I looked back outside and saw my friends all ditching their boards as a solid 8' set came rolling through cleaning everyone up.

So I figure I pushed my limits, and took the best the day had to offer at this spot. An adrenaline filled drop to fast shoulder and a closeout ending.